Papeete

French Polynesia·Oceania

Currency

XPF

Language

French, Tahitian

Timezone

Tahiti

Continent

Oceania

Our guide

Discover Papeete

Papeete is not the postcard — that starts offshore. It is the capital of French Polynesia, a trading and administrative town on Tahiti's north coast, and the compulsory gateway to the other islands. The Marché de Papeete, on two floors, is the real centre: flowers, fish, monoï, pareos, and pandanus weaving upstairs. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame, in coral and timber, dates from 1875. East of town, the Pointe Vénus lighthouse marks where James Cook observed the transit of Venus in 1769, the expedition that brought him here; the beach is black volcanic sand, which surprises those expecting white. Behind the town, Mont Orohena rises to 2,241 metres — the highest point in Polynesia — with Aorai just below.

When to go

The dry season, May to October, is the right one: twenty-seven degrees, less humidity, the sea at twenty-six. November to April is the wet season, hot and heavy, with brief but daily downpours and a cyclone risk from January to March. July is Heiva, the great festival of dance and song that runs for weeks and fills the accommodation. The water is swimmable all year.

Getting around

Papeete is walkable along the waterfront and around the market. For the island loop — one hundred and fourteen kilometres — a hire car is necessary; there is no train and the trucks that serve as buses are irregular. Ferries to Moorea leave the port hourly and take thirty minutes; it is the easiest and most rewarding trip out. Domestic flights reach Bora Bora and the Tuamotus from Faa'a, five kilometres out. From Paris, allow twenty-two hours with one stop.

Where to eat

Raw fish in coconut milk — ia ota — is the national dish: tuna, lime, cucumber, pressed coconut. Uru, breadfruit, replaces the potato. Po'e, a fruit dessert set with manioc starch, is eaten with coconut milk. The roulottes on Place Vaiete set up each evening on the waterfront and serve fish, grills and crêpes at far more reasonable prices than the restaurants.

Good to know

The Pacific franc is the currency, pegged to the euro at a fixed rate — but euros do not circulate. Everything is expensive: Polynesia imports almost everything, and a restaurant meal costs more than in Paris. One site is free. Black pearls are sold everywhere and prices vary enormously: compare before buying. On Sundays the town stops completely, food shops included.

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Stay

Where to Stay in Papeete

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Experience

Top Activities in Papeete

Mont Orohena
viewpoint

Mont Orohena

Free

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Papeete
landmark

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Papeete

Papeete Tahiti Temple
landmark

Papeete Tahiti Temple

Phare de la Pointe Vénus
landmark

Phare de la Pointe Vénus

Aora’i
viewpoint

Aora’i

Free

Pitohiti
viewpoint

Pitohiti

Free

landmark

BANQUE SOCREDO siège

landmark

Parc Vairai

Musée James Norman Hall
museum

Musée James Norman Hall

landmark

Bâtiment Tetuna’e

landmark

Niupay Pay By Phone

viewpoint

Belvédère du Tahara'a

Free

landmark

VIDAUX

landmark

site de plongée

landmark

Bibliothèque universitaire de l'UPF

landmark

Les Jardins de Pā'ōfa'i

landmark

Marché Municipal Mapuru a Paraita

park

Parc Vaipoopoo

Free

park

Parc public de la digue

Free

park

TAAPUNA

Free

landmark

Fare Hei

viewpoint

Diadem Mountain

Free

landmark

Banque de Tahiti

viewpoint

Le Pic Rouge

Free

Dine

Restaurants in Papeete

Cinéma Hollywood Snack

chicken

Les Petits Ventres

Pitate Mamao

asian

Setbeach club

Le Sully

Crêperie Sweet spots

crêpe

Café Maeva

El Tiare

Taapuna Restaurant

french

Autrement

salad

Alpha B

Lou Pescadou

pizza

L'Ô à la Bouche

La squadra

Shabu Zen

japanese

TIKI PĒ'UE

Wonderland

L’Aviation Bar Restaurant