Lyon

France·Europe

Currency

EUR

Language

French

Timezone

Paris

Continent

Europe

Our guide

Discover Lyon

Lyon was Lugdunum, capital of the Gauls, and the Roman theatres on Fourvière hill are still used in summer. The hill is crowned by the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, white and visible from the whole city. Below, Vieux Lyon is one of Europe's largest Renaissance quarters, UNESCO-listed along with the rest of the historic site, and threaded with traboules — covered passages linking two streets through the buildings, used by silk workers to carry cloth out of the rain and later by the Resistance. The Cathédrale Saint-Jean keeps a fourteenth-century astronomical clock. Further south, the Musée des Confluences, at the point where the Rhône meets the Saône, contrasts with everything else. The Grand Hôtel-Dieu, a former hospital on the Rhône, reopened in 2018 as galleries and squares.

When to go

May, June and September are the pleasantest: twenty-five degrees, walkable quays, bouchons less besieged. December is worth a detour for the Fête des Lumières around the 8th: four evenings of installations across the city, with hotels booked out months ahead. Summer is hot and heavy between the two rivers. Winter is grey and cold, but it is the season in which Lyonnais cooking makes complete sense.

Getting around

Four metro lines, two funiculars up to Fourvière, trams and the Vélo'v bike share: Lyon is quick to cross. Part-Dieu station puts Paris two hours away. The funicular spares you the climb to Fourvière, which is steep. Vieux Lyon and the Presqu'île are entirely walkable, and walking is the only way to find the traboules — many are in private buildings whose doors open to quiet visitors.

Where to eat

The bouchon is an institution: checked tablecloths, generous portions, pike quenelle, tablier de sapeur, and cervelle de canut despite its name — a herbed fresh cheese, nothing more. Brasserie Georges, open since 1836, is France's largest brasserie and still serving. Les Halles Paul Bocuse gathers the producers under one roof. Twenty-five halal addresses are listed.

Good to know

The euro is the currency. Twenty-eight sites are free, and many municipal museums are free on the first Sunday of the month. Traboules are the common parts of lived-in buildings: enter quietly and leave the same way. The Fête des Lumières transforms the city four evenings a year — book very early or avoid those dates.

Smart Planning